Hirado's Autumn Festival: Okunchi
Throughout the Hirado islands, Shinto festivals called "Okunchi" are held from October to December to give thanks for the autumn harvest.
The largest of these is the festival at Kameoka Shrine in central Hirado, which is held every year for four days from October 24th onwards.
The Kagura stage, where the Hirado Kagura dance is performed
Kameoka Shrine is the result of a merger of four shrines in 1878: Reichinzan Shrine, Otomiya Shrine, Hachiman Shrine, and Shichirou Shrine. Hirado Okunchi is said to be a continuation of a festival that was held at the Shichirou Shrine around the 19th century.
During Okunchi the entire town comes alive, with a parade of the portable shrines (called mikoshi), a procession of feudal warriors, dragon dances and more.
A scene from the Hirado Kagura dances
A scene from the Hirado Kagura dances
The procession of feudal warriors, part of the Hirado Okunchi Festival
The highlight of the festival is "Hirado Kagura”. Kagura are ancient Shinto rituals that consists of dance and music performed for the gods. Hirado Kagura is said to have been created by Mitsuyoshi Tachibana, who was born into a family of priests at the Shichirou Shrine, and who traveled around Japan researching and studying Kagura in various regions, culminating in a huge series of 24 dances. Hirado Kagura is now designated by the national government as an important intangible folk cultural property.
Every year on October 26, from around 11:00 a.m. until after sunset, all 24 dances of the Hirado Kagura are dedicated in one continuous flow which is know as Hirado Daidai Kagura.
Kameoka Shrine, dedicated to the Matsura family
Kameoka Shrine, where the Hirado Kagura dances are performed, was built within the Hirado Castle grounds and is dedicated to the Matsura clan, which ruled this area for a long time.
Kameoka Shrine (left) and the Kagura stage (right)
The turrets of Hirado Castle
The Matsura clan ruled the Hirado domain for hundreds of years without a change of clan, which was quite rare in Japan.
Using the port of Hirado as their window on the world, the Matsura’s actively traded with foreign countries from the mid-16th to the mid-17th century. Through this trade they were able to expand their power in the region.
Kensou Turret provides a commanding view over the Hirado Strait
The Kensou turret on the hill overlooks the port of Hirado. It is easy to imagine the lord of Hirado watching the foreign ships come and go from this hill.
Exploring the places related to the Hirado Okunchi Festival
Every year, Hirado Okunchi’s main parade carrying the mikoshi is accompanied by a procession of warriors, and together they wind their way through the entire town.
As you walk down this procession route from Hirado Castle into the castle town, you will soon encounter the historical buildings of a sake brewery.
Here, they produce sake made from rice harvested in the terraced rice paddies of Kasuga Village, a UNESCO World Heritage Site on Hirado island.
The historical buildings of the sake brewery
Yutaro Mori shares his memories of the Hirado Kunchi
Yutaro Mori of the Mori Sake Brewery says he always used to participate in the Okunchi parade as a child.
He recalls the food stalls in the shopping street and the parade winding its way through town as fond childhood memories of Hirado Okunchi. He tells us how local elementary school children are invited to participate in the procession together with the adults and that local people, both young and old, are always looking forward to this one special day of the year.
Monument marking the spot where William Adams passed away
Memorial of the Hirado English Trading Post
Nostalgic street lanterns
As you continue on your way, you can feel the footprints of history in many different places such as the spot where the famous English explorer William Adams passed away and the former site of the British trading post. Eventually you will come to one the main sightseeing spots in Hirado, the serene view of two temples and a church.
The view of temples and a church
Peeking out behind the Buddhist temples is the green roof of the Hirado Xavier Memorial Church. Historical Japanese and Western buildings are in harmony here, creating a distinctive townscape that represents the history of Hirado.
Cornelia's memorial pagoda
Cornelia's Memorial Pagoda located on the grounds of Zuiun-ji Temple, was built by Cornelia, who was born to the head of the Dutch trading post in Hirado and a Japanese woman, for her late father who passed away in Hirado.
Shrine at the site of the former Shichirou Shrine
Next to the Miyancho Community Center, there is a small shrine next to the second-story parking lot.
This was the location of Shichirou Shrine, one of the four shrines that merged into Kameoka Shrine.
Mitsuyoshi Tachibana, who is said to have created the current form of Hirado Kagura, was the priest of this shrine.
Today, it is also the place where the Hirado Okunchi procession stops to perform some of their rituals
If you follow the procession’s route further, you will come to a street where you will find the Giant Cycad and the hexagonal well.
Giant cycad
In the early 17th century, when trade with the Netherlands and England was flourishing, large merchant houses stood side by side in this area.
This giant cycad is said to have been planted in the garden of one of the merchant houses, the Kawasakiya
The large branches stretching out in all directions give a sense of its history. Amidst the changing town and people, it has continued to watch over the Hirado Okunchi festival as it passes by year after year.
Hexagonal well
A little further down the road from the giant cycad you can find a hexagonal well.
It is said that many merchants from China lived in this area in the 16th century, and it is believed that this hexagonal well was also built at that time in the style of the Ming dynasty.
Slabs of stone laid in a hexagonal shape create this, for Japan, unusually shaped well.
Matsura Historical Museum
Further on, the entrance to the Matsura Historical Museum will come in sight.
Here, many valuable historical materials collected by the Matsura family are on display.
Foot spa near the Matsura Historical Museum
Knowing the historical background of this town adds even more depth to these retro looking streets from a bygone era.
The Kagura dance stage at Kameoka Shrine
The town of Hirado has nurtured and sustained the Hirado Okunchi Festival throughout the ages.
When you walk through town thinking about that long period of time, maybe you will discover a different side to the retro townscape that is steeped in history and tradition.